When I tried to learn to knit, I noticed the same basic terms popping up, but I couldn’t find anyone who explained how it all goes together. If anything, there’s TOO much information out there. As I said before, there are plenty of tutorials explaining how to knit a stitch or bind off a scarf, but I couldn’t find anyone who laid out the exact steps, in their correct order, that I needed to take.
Questions I actually asked myself:
What do I do with this thing of yarn… does it need to be in a ball?
How do I.. get.. the yarn… onto a needle?
Awesome, I just cast on this bitchin’ row of 22 stitches… now what?
Ok, the first row is done… um.. how do I keep going?
In order to knit, you will need to learn to understand yarn weight and needle sizes & types.
You will learn to cast on (get the yarn on the needle), then you will knit or purl (2 types of stitches – that’s it), following your pattern until you eventually bind off (create a finished edge and stop).
If you want to make something beyond a scarf, you may also learn how to knit in the round. This can be done on double pointed needles or a circular needle.
Needles & yarns – super quick tips
Pick out a yarn you like, look at the label. There is a suggested needle size listed. Go get that size needle. It’s that simple!
Above, Bulky yarn (explained later), size 10 needles (listed in black box)
This is not comprehensive (which could be overwhelming) it’s just a super quick overview — Yarns come in weights from Lace up to Super Bulky. You’ll see/hear Laceweight, Fingering, Light Worsted, Worsted, Bulky, Super Bulky – these just indicate size of the yarn. Needle size is determined by yarn size. They can go from tiny little 2 up through very large 19 or more. It can get detailed and include .5 sizes too – ignore it for now. I do.
For a more detailed approach, think about the knit products you buy. When I used to buy knit things, I only bought super chunky scarves, cowls, gloves, etc. So I started with a Super Bulky yarn from JoAnns (Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick & Quick is a great option), and size 13 needles. Get 2 skeins. It’ll make for a nice big scarf and give you extra to mess up.
For needles, I started with a pair of single point Aluminum needles (above, in pink & green) because, well, they looked nicer so I assumed they were better. Now I use wood needles almost exclusively. It’s a personal choice. The yarn slips along aluminum easily, so it can be easier for beginners. The yarn also slips OFF aluminum easily, so you can easily drop stitches. It’s difficult to figure out how to pick up a dropped stitch when you aren’t even yet sure what you’re looking at. I’d tell you to buy wood. I have a bunch of Clover brand bamboo needles from JoAnns and they’ve been great.
17, 15, 13, 10, 9, 6
Those are general rules, but it’s not a science. I own 9 & 13 single pointed needles, 6 & 10 double pointed needes, and 6, 10, 15, 17 circular needles. If I’m knitting something stuffed, I go 2-3 sizes smaller (I almost exclusively use a super bulky, suggested needle size 13, but actually knit on my 10 double pointed needles and 10 circular) to create a really tight knit that hides stuffing. I learned this trick from Rebecca Danger and she’s awesome, so if you won’t listen to me, listen to her. If I find a great wool that’s a bit “rough” to the touch, I’ll knit up maybe just one size to create a softer more open knit product. If you LOVE a yarn and but can’t find the “right” needle, know its just a suggestion, and get something that’s close or use a needle you already have. Even if this theory is technically wrong, it works great for me.
Now you hopefully won’t spend a month wondering what “worsted” means. Plus, surely you’ve bought 2 skeins of yarn and needles, so now you need to actually learn to knit. Onto part 2!
Toolshed
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